At TRI-KES, we offer more than just a great selection of wallcoverings. We bring an unmatched level of expertise to every project. Our FAQs make it easy to be sure you're getting the right product for any application. If you don't see your concern addressed below, feel free to contact us. One of our experts will be happy to answer your questions.

1. What are the different types of commercial wallcovering?
2. What is the difference between Type I and Type II wallcoverings?
3. How do I clean wallcoverings?
4. How do I install commercial wallcovering?
5. What kind of wallcovering adhesive should I use?
6. What are some common installation problems I could run into?

1. What are the different types of commercial wallcovering?

Commercial wallcoverings are produced specifically for use in hotels, apartment buildings, office buildings, schools and hospitals. They are manufactured to meet or surpass minimum physical and performance characteristics set forth in federal guidelines (Federal Specifications CCC-W-408. The guidelines focus on requirements for flammability, tear strength, abrasion resistance, washability, scrubability and stain resistance.

Examples of various types of commercial wallcoverings include the following:

• Acoustical wallcoverings are designed for use on vertical surfaces, panels, operable walls and any place where the need for sound reduction is a primary consideration, such as in meeting rooms, offices, theaters, auditoriums and restaurants, as well as corridors and elevator lobbies. These products are predominantly made of man-made polyester and olefin fibers and are tested for a special sound absorption rating known as a Noise Reduction Coefficient (NCR) rating. This rating indicates the amount of sound absorbed into the wall. The higher the number, the more noise absorption.
• Cork and cork veneer have a variegated texture with no definite pattern or design. Cork veneer is shaved from cork planks or blocks and laminated to a substrate that may be colored or plain.
• Fabric-backed vinyl is a wallcovering that has a woven substrate of fabric or a nonwoven synthetic substrate. In either case, the substrate is laminated to a solid-vinyl decorative surface. General categories of this type of wallcovering include Type I (light-duty) vinyl, which is typically used in office areas, hospital patient rooms and hotel rooms, and Type II (medium-duty) vinyl, which is typically used in high-traffic/public areas, foyers, lounges, corridors, offices, hospital wards and classrooms.
• Natural-textile wallcoverings are usually laminated to a backing to enhance dimensional stability and to prevent the adhesive from coming through to the surface. These backings are usually acrylic or paper. Textiles are manufactured in a variety of widths and are constructed of natural fibers. Natural textiles can be finely designed or coarse in texture, depending on the desired look.
• Paper-backed vinyl is a wallcovering that has a paper (pulp) substrate laminated to a solid decorative surface.
• Polyolefin/synthetic-textile wallcoverings are woven- and nonwoven-looking wallcoverings and were developed to give the aesthetic appearance of a natural textile while adding an increased value in stain and abrasion resistance. These products are generally put up with an acrylic or paper backing. Many of these products are composed of polyolefin yarns, which are olefin fibers made from polymers or copolymers of propylene.
• Wood veneer wallcoverings are mostly laminated to fabric backing. They are usually made in sheets 18 to 24 inches wide and provided in any length up to 144

Source: Wallcoverings Association (www.wallcoverings.org)

2. What is the difference between Type I and Type II wallcoverings?

• Type I and Type II refer to vinyl wallcovering only. Type I (light-duty) vinyl is typically used in office areas, hospital patient rooms and hotel rooms. Type II (medium-duty) vinyl is typically used in high-traffic/public areas, foyers, lounges, corridors, offices, hospital wards and classrooms.

Source: Wallcoverings Association (www.wallcoverings.org)

3. How do I clean wallcoverings?

Maintaining the life of vinyl wallcovering is easy if maintenance personnel keep these points in mind.

• Always refer to the manufacturer's guidelines when cleaning wallcovering.
• Stains should be removed as soon as possible to eliminate any reaction between the stain and the wallcovering and to prevent permanent discoloration.
• Ordinary dirt spots can be removed with a mild soap and warm water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water; blot dry with a soft, lint-free towel.
• For difficult stains that are surface deep, use of a stronger detergent is recommended. Try an inconspicuous spot first before attempting the entire wall. Always rinse after applying a detergent. Abrasive rubbing of spots should be avoided.
• Do not use steel wool, powdered cleaners or active solvent-type preparations, such as nail polish remover, tar and bug removers, etc., as these may damage the wallcovering.
• Remember that textile wallcoverings are decorative and require care in cleaning. Occasional vacuuming will remove most of the dirt and lint and maintain the product's fresh look and appearance.

Source: Wallcoverings Association (www.wallcoverings.org)

4. How do I install commercial wallcovering?

First, and most importantly, if at any time during the installation a discrepancy is discovered, stop! Contact TRI-KES at 800 200 8120 before proceeding. Also, always check manufacturer's instructions.

• Before cutting, examine goods to make sure the pattern and color are as ordered. Check all roll tickets to determine whether more than one run or lot number of the same pattern is to be installed.
• Cut panels and headers in roll number sequence, making sure that run numbers are broken at INSIDE corners only. Allow for matching of repeats and trimming at the ceiling and the baseboard.
• Many matched patterns, geometric patterns and textiles should be table trimmed before installing. A sharp blade should be used to minimize fraying of fabric (use one blade per cut). Other patterns should be overlapped and double cut on the wall. A double cutting tool or seam pad is recommended to prevent scoring of the wall.
• Number panels and headers as they are cut from the roll and apply them to the wall in the same sequence.
• Install all wallcovering under adequate lighting and evaluate for color uniformity. When proper lighting conditions are not possible, duplicate the final lighting conditions as nearly as possible.
• Take extra care to keep adhesives and dirt from the wallcovering surface.
• After three panels have been hung on the wall surface and excess paste removed, examine the installed panels for uniformity in color. If any color variation is noticed, discontinue hanging and contact TRI-KES at 800 200 8120.

Source: Wallcoverings Association (www.wallcoverings.org)

5. What kind of wallcovering adhesive should I use?

There are many types of wallcovering adhesives, each formulated for various performance characteristics. These characteristics fall in two general categories:

• How they bond the wallcovering to the wall surface.
• How they apply to the wallcovering (this is a major consideration for the installer)

Wallcovering adhesives are formulated for specific applications. Some adhesives are formulated for lightweight and delicate fabrics, while others are designed to adhere heavyweight vinyl and acoustical coverings. Adhesives vary in level of wet-tack, solids, open-time , stripability and ease of application. All wallcovering adhesives contain a biocide system. These systems are designed to prevent bacterial contamination and mildew/fungal infestation, both "in-the-can" and in the dried adhesive. Wallcovering adhesives are generally applied on the back of the wallcovering either by roller or pasting machine.

There are three main categories of adhesives:

• Clear adhesives are either corn or wheat based. They are generally considered to have more open-time and are easier to clean up than clay-based adhesives. Clear adhesives are designed for both the retail customer and commercial installer.
• Clay adhesives, like clear adhesives, are starch based, but clay is added as a filler to increase the wet-tack. Clay adhesives are harder to clean up than other clear adhesives.
• Vinyl-over-vinyl and border adhesives contain synthetic polymers and are specifically formulated to bond to vinyl. In addition to the synthetic polymers, these adhesives may contain some starch and other ingredients to assist in their application. These adhesives require extra attention during application because once they are dried, they are permanent. Vinyl-over-vinyl adhesives are specifically designed to hang new wallcoverings to existing wallcoverings or borders to wallcoverings.
• Natural fiber color variation, slubs and knots are an intricate part of each textile design and are used to enhance the beauty and texture of each pattern.
• Textiles are generally designed to be installed non-reversed, but always check the manufacturer's instructions.
• Extreme care must be taken to keep adhesives from the face of a textile wallcovering. Adhesives on the surface may prove to be difficult or impossible to remove without staining. Clear adhesives that are designed as nonstaining should be used.
• Selvage (excess trimmed edge) should be removed from the wall and seams closed within one hour of wallcovering installation.
• Acrylic-backed or unbacked textiles should be dry hung.
• The walls should be pasted with a paint roller. Paste a section 4 to 6” wider than the width of the wallcovering. In some cases, the adhesive should be allowed to tack sufficiently in order to provide greater adhesion and prevent adhesive bleed-through.

When choosing a commercial wallcovering application, keep in mind that some high-end or specialty-contract wallcoverings require special care for perfect installation.

Note the following special considerations for textiles: Note the following special instructions for fabric-backed vinyl:

• When installing textured or non-matched [MSOffice6] patterns, reverse-hanging of alternate strips may be required to ensure color uniformity from strip to strip.
• Apply adhesive to the back using a pasting machine or roller. Work the adhesive to cover the back completely, especially near the edges. Fold each end forward, pasted sides together, aligning edges carefully so they do not dry out. Caution: Do not crease wallcovering. Allow to relax or “book” for 10 minutes. This will allow the adhesive to penetrate the wallcovering fabric, which is important for successful installation.

Source: Wallcoverings Association (www.wallcoverings.org)

6. What are some common installation problems I could run into?

The following are some of the more common problems that may occur when wallcoverings are installed, along with their likely causes and solutions. Most involve improper or poor surface preparation, inadequate inspection prior to hanging, or installation errors. All of these problems can be avoided if proper instructions are provided and followed. If you have additional questions, please contact us directly at customer.service@tri-kes.com or 800 200 8120.

Seams opening Causes:
1. Excessive rolling of seams, forcing adhesive from behind wallcovering
2. Failure to apply adhesive to edges when pasting
3. Allowing paste to dry on edges while booking

Solution: Loose seams can usually be reaffixed using available wallcovering adhesives.

Curling or loose ends Causes:
1. Improper wall preparation (i.e., wall not sealed or no sizing)
2. Not enough adhesive used
3. Adhesive dried too fast due to high temperatures in room

Solution: If problem is restricted to ends or edges, wallcovering can be re-affixed using the proper adhesive.

Streaks on wallcovering or other surfaces Cause:
1. Failure to rinse off wallcovering and walls after hanging to remove all excess paste.

Solution: Rinse with water or proper cleaning solution (check manufacturer’s’s instructions).

Ragged edges when trimming Cause:
1. Trimming performed with a dull blade

Solution: Fresh blades should be used with every strip to ensure a clean cut.

Shading Cause:
1. With natural materials, such as grass cloth, slight variations in colors are natural; the type and degree of shading vary by wallcovering type

Solution: If the effect of natural shading is too stark, reversing each strip by hanging every other strip upside down can minimize the problem. Another method is to sort the rolls by tonal values and hang near near-matches together. However, if the shading is due to the ground color not being consistent from roll to roll, the problem is one that occurred during printing, and the wallcovering should not be hung. Contact TRI-KES at 800 200 8120 for assistance.

Design dropping or rising at ceiling line Causes:
1. Initial plumb line not truly vertical
2. Ceiling not on a horizontal plane
3. A combination of the two

Solution: There is no way to correct this problem if hanging has been completed. If it is caught at the end of installation on the first wall, placing a new, true plumb line on the next wall can help correct or minimize the problem of the ceiling not being horizontal. If the problem is caught after installation of the second or third strip, it can be corrected by drawing a new plumb line and double double-cutting the adjoining incorrect strip.

Show-through Causes: 1. Selected wallcoverings being thin and semi-transparent enough to allow dark images caused by patching, etc., on the wall behind to show through

Solution: This potential problem can be avoided by priming the wall with a pigmented wallcovering primer/sealer. If the wall is in particularly bad shape and a semi-transparent wallcovering will be used, lining paper should also be used.

Bubbles and blisters Causes:
1. Not smoothing out a strip smoothly
2. Hanging in temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit
3. Improper surface preparation
4. Not allowing the booked strips to relax for the proper amount of time

Solution: Some bubbles and blisters can be eliminated by pricking and smoothing out or, if large, slitting and squeezing in more paste and patting flat.

Source: Wallcoverings Association (www.wallcoverings.org)